PATTERN DEFECTS IN GARMENTS: (CAD)
- Missing of pattern parts, probably marker have the wrong number of parts.
- Pattern part mixing, probably because of wrongly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns facing in wrong direction on napped fabrics.
- Patterns badly aligned with respect to grain of fabric.
- Bad line definition (that is, too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
- Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric.
- The pattern may have worn out edges.
- Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.
- When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits missing.
- Not enough knife clearance freedom.
- Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
- Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial box across the seam.
- Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
SPREADING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS
- Not enough plies to cover quantity of garments required.
- Plies misaligned, resulting in garment parts getting cut with bits missing in some plies at the edge of the spread.
- Narrow fabric width, causes garment parts at the edge of the lay getting cut with bits missing.
- Incorrect tension of plies, i.e. fabric spread too tight or too loose. This will result in parts not fitting in sewing, and finished garments not meeting size tolerances.
- Not all plies facing in correct direction (whether 'one way' as with nap, or 'one way either way' as with some check designs). This happens when fabric is not spread face down, face up, or face to face as required.
- Unacceptable damages in the garment parts. Parts not fully included owing to splicing errors.
- Spread distorted by the attraction or repulsion of plies caused by excessive static electricity e.g. in satin fabric.
- Plies are not spread accurately one above another for cutting. This results in mismatching checks.
CUTTING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS
- Failure to follow the marker lines resulting in distorted garment parts.
- Top and bottom plies can be a different size if the straight knife is allowed to lean, or if a round knife is used on too high a spread.
- Notches, which are misplaced, too deep, too shallow, angled, omitted, or wrong type to suit fabric.
- Frayed edges, scorched or fused edges, caused by a faulty knife, not sharp enough, or rotating at too high a speed knife cut.
- Garment part damaged by careless use of knife, perhaps overrunning cutting previous piece.
- Marker incorrectly positioned on top of spread.
- Garment parts have bits missing at edge of lay. If too tight or too loose then garment parts are distorted.
- Spread distortion due to electricity, particularly in checks.
COLOR DEFECTS IN GARMENTS
Color defects that could occur are difference of the
color of final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of
wrong color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
SEWING DEFECTS IN GARMENTS
- Broken buttons.
- Broken snaps.
- Broken stitching.
- Creasing of garments.
- Defective snaps.
- Different shades within the same garment.
- Dropped stitches.
- Exposed notches.
- Exposed raw edges.
- Fabric defects.
- Holes.
- Inoperative zipper.
- Loose / hanging sewing threads and buttons.
- Misaligned buttons and holes.
- Missing buttons.
- Missing stitches.
- Needle cuts / chews.
- Open seams.
- Pulled / loose yarn ( thread tension ).
- Stain.
- Unfinished buttonhole.
- Wrong stitching technique.
- Zipper too short.
- Usage of different color threads on the garment, creasing of the garment,
- Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.
WASHING DEFECT IN
GARMENTS
A rotation,
usually lateral, between different panels of a garment resulting from the
release of latent stresses during laundering of the woven or knitted fabric
forming the garment. Twist may also be referred to as Torque or Spiraled.
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